How to Identify a True Hand Embroidered Chikankari Work

Hand embroidered chikankari work is a traditional form of embroidery that originated in Lucknow, India. This intricate and delicate craft involves creating beautiful patterns on fabric using white thread. But how can you identify authentic chikankari work? Let's explore the key characteristics to look for.

Check the Fabric

Authentic chikankari work is usually done on lightweight fabrics like muslin, chiffon, or georgette. These fabrics allow the intricate embroidery to stand out and give the garment a graceful look. The fabric should feel soft and airy to the touch, enhancing the overall quality of the embroidery.

Inspect the Stitches

Chikankari embroidery is known for its fine and detailed stitches. The artisans use a variety of stitches like 'Bakhiya' (shadow work), 'Phanda' (knot stitch), and 'Keel kangan' (stem stitch) to create beautiful patterns. Each stitch is done meticulously, creating a unique texture and design on the fabric.

Look for the Reverse Side

One way to identify authentic chikankari work is to look at the reverse side of the fabric. Since the embroidery is done by hand, you will see that the back of the fabric is almost as neat as the front. This is a sign of skilled craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Examine the Design

Chikankari designs are inspired by nature, with motifs like flowers, birds, and vines commonly used in the embroidery. The designs are usually symmetrical and balanced, creating a harmonious look on the fabric. Authentic chikankari work will have a timeless appeal and a sense of elegance in its design.

Feel the Texture

When you run your fingers over a piece of chikankari work, you should feel the raised texture of the embroidery. The stitches should be raised slightly from the fabric, giving it a three-dimensional quality. This texture adds depth and richness to the design, making it visually appealing.

By paying attention to these key characteristics, you can easily identify authentic hand embroidered chikankari work. Whether you're purchasing a chikankari saree, kurta, or dupatta, knowing how to distinguish the real craftsmanship from imitations will help you appreciate the artistry and skill behind this traditional embroidery technique.